Author Archive for AnneInSpain – Page 5

GR PR SL

GR in Soria, a personal favorite

GR in Soria, a personal favorite

What? Is this some kind of code?

Sort of – though most Euro-hikers are already smiling. These cryptic letters are for the network of European walking trails: GR for Gran Recorrido (long distance), PR for Pequeño Recorrido (short distance) and SL for Senda Local (local trail).

This network of trails is mostly in France, Belgium, the Netherlands and Spain and the official trails are certified by the regional or national organization that manages walking and hiking in each country. The signage is the same in all countries, and some of the trails are international.

Theoretically these routes have few if any technical difficulties (no scrambling or extremely steep climbs) so they are accessible for almost everyone. Theoretically the routes access towns or other supply points frequently so there’s no need to carry huge amounts of food on long trails.  And theoretically the signage is so easy to follow that walkers don’t need to worry about getting lost.

In practice, here in Spain the trails range from fabulously laid out and marvelously signed to anything but: challenging mountain trails suitable only for fit and experienced hikers, or virtually unmarked trails are not unusual in Spain.

Part of that problem is specifically Spanish: recreational walking is relatively new in Spain, while other European countries have been walking for fun for much longer.  (The flip side of that: due to underdevelopment and relative isolation, many traditional footpaths and cart roads were in regular use in Spain until the 1960’s, so right-of-ways still in place and walking trails easy to re-create.)

Another possible issue:  in Spain the walking trails are under the mountaineering federation, often more interested in high-adrenaline sports like technical climbing and peak-bagging, while in France there’s a specific federation for walking.  Also, on long-distance trails different regional federations or organizations must coordinate marking trails, not always easy to manage.

And last but of course not least, part of the problem is money – it’s expensive to lay out and mark a trail, and sometimes there is no money left over to maintain signage once a trail is created.

But in spite of the issues, these trails are a wonderful option for walkers, a great way to discover rural Spain.  Just do your research ahead of time, take maps and any additional information you can, and of course follow all the usual safety procedures for walking and hiking.

Read on to learn more

PR blaze in upper Manzanares valley (Madrid)

PR blaze in upper Manzanares valley (Madrid)

Where to go:  see list at the end for information on these trails. There is a huge difference in the number of trails and how they’re managed between Spanish regions:  Catalunya is where it all started (1974, no less) and they still have more trails and more fondness for walking than most regions.  Most of Spain’s north has good trails, and there are some excellent trail systems in central Spain, most notably provinces of Soria, Burgos and Valladolid, possibly due to specific, forward-thinking individual or local development groups.

Signage:  All three trails use the same kind of signage painted on trees, rocks or sometimes vertical signposts:  two horizontal stripes, the top one white and underneath color for the trail system.  Turnoffs or changes in direction should be signed with white right-angle marker next to the stripes, or by right-angling the stripes themselves. At crossroads, the wrong direction should be signed with an X, one arm white and the other arm the color for the trail system. Altogether this painted signage can be called flashes, waymarks or blazes.

GR / Gran Recorrido (long distance).  Blazes: Red and white. Distance: usually over 50 kilometers (31 miles), though might be a little shorter if there are some challenging parts.  Spain has more than 120 long distance trails: the longest is the GR7 from Andorra to Tarifa, 2,699 kilometers (1,677 miles), part of a trans-European trail that continues to Athens.  The GR10 crosses northern Madrid on its way between Valencia and  Lisbon; at 1,600 kilometers (994 miles) it’s one of the country’s longest. Other long trails follow the Ebro or Duero river, but most of the GR trails are 80 – 300 kilometers  (50 – 186 miles) long.

PR / Pequeño Recorrido (short distance). Blazes: yellow and white. Distance:  usually 10-50 kilometers (6-31 miles).  Sometimes these routes are loops off the longer GR trails, sometimes traditional routes between villages and sometimes more hiking than walking. A quick look at the list of PR in Madrid (see below) was a bit of a shock: I know the mountains quite well and signage for some of the trails listed is not in place, or just barely.  (eeek!)

SL/ Senda Local (local trail).  Blazes: green and white. Distance: usually under 10 kilometers. This kind of trail is less frequent, probably because the requirements for certifying a short trail are more trouble than most local organizations can manage, when they have the option of creating their own trail system outside the European network.

More information

GR / Gran Recorrido (Long distance), list of trails sorted by number. Many have links for additional information, though initially no information on region, easy to find by clicking on link for trails.  http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gran_Recorrido

PR / Pequeño Recorrido (Short distance), list of trails sorted by region.  Most trails do not have links for additional information, but knowing where trails are located you can find more on internet or at regional mountaineering federation.   http://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Peque%C3%B1o_Recorrido

More info, though irregular in quantity and quality:  Google Federacion de Montaña together with the name of the province or region that interests you most.

Hiking safety, basic tips at www.apinderinspain.com  Mouseover Travel Tips to find Hiking Smarts

 

Getting High in Madrid

Spain. Madrid

North Madrid skyline with partial view of Cuatro Torres at left center and Kio Towers (leaning) at right center

Want to get high in Madrid? If you want to get as high as possible you must go to Peñalara peak, at 2,428 meters (7,966 feet). That’s Madrid’s ceiling, even though it’s partly in Segovia province. (Sound fun? it’s an accessible hike for experienced walkers).

In the city, remember that high is relative. Plaza de Castilla is one of the highest parts of the city in altitude, as well as having the highest buildings. But getting high in downtown Madrid has its own charm – red tile roofs, pretty squares, rooftop cafés and much more. Read on to learn tips and tricks for getting high in Madrid.

Urban highs

Centro Centro / Palacio de Cibeles. Madrid’s old post office, designed by Antonio Palacios, inaugurated 1919, now City Hall and cultural center. Mirador observation deck on 8th floor, get tickets to the right of main door. Visits are timed due to limited space, first elevator does not go all the way up, you take a second elevator when your time is called. If your knees can take it walk all the way down to admire this fabulous building. Restaurant-café and cocktail bar on 6th floor. Where: Plaza de Cibeles, southeast side of square. More info on observation deck and ticket fees: www.centrocentro.org/centro/espacios scroll down to Mirador – but check out other things in this cool building.

Círculo Bellas Artes. Private cultural center, offers lots of things to general. Also designed by Antonio Palacios, inaugurated 1926. The CBA Azotea (rooftop) observation deck and bar has one of the best views in the city center. Where: calle Alcalá 42, entrance from side street Marqués de Casa Riera. Metro Banco de España. More info for observation deck and ticket fees: www.circulobellasartes.com/azotea.php

The Roof – Hotel Melia ME. Rooftop bar, fabulous views of Santa Ana square and surrounding area. One of Madrid’s see-and-be-seen scenes, complete with dress code and 25 euro entrance fee (at least last time I checked, that’s not on the website). Where: Plaza Santa Ana 14. Metro Sevilla or Sol. More info: www.melia.com/hoteles/espana/madrid/me-madrid-reina-victoria/the-roof.html

La Terraza del Urban – Hotel Urban. Rooftop bar on a five-star hotel, near Santa Ana square. Only open spring to fall. Where: Carrera de San Jerónimo 34. Metro Sevilla or Sol. More info about the rooftop bar: www.hotelurban.com/#!en/restaurants/la-terraza-del-urban-1-info/

Casa de Granada: A rooftop bar with a sliver of terrace, now partly glassed in. Good view of Tirso de Molina square, south part of the city and if you go at night and get the right table, a nice sunset. Not elegant, but a great location near Yelmo-Ideal movies in English. Where: Dr. Cortezo 17, 6th floor. Metro Tirso de Molina. Approximate hours: noon to midnight, creaky elevator NOT working all that time. Cannot find website with any decent info.

El Viajero: Good view of San Francisco del Grande church, great sunsets. Very crowded on Sunday afternoons with post-Rastro scene. Address: Plaza Cebada 11, metro La Latina. More info on location and hours: www.elviajeromadrid.com/#la-azotea

Gaudeamus: This used to be a well-kept secret but the word is out on a great rooftop café. Find it on top of the UNED (Distance Learning University), a modern building tacked on to a ruined church, converted into a gorgeous library. Views of the surrounding neighborhood, with  La Corrala and red tile roofs. There’s an elevator but be sure to walk up or down to see how the new and old buildings integrate – and peek into that library from the stairs. Where: Tribulete 14, 4th floor (UNED building), Metro Lavapies and Embajadores. More info: www.gaucafe.com   UPDATE: alas, this place has closed, apparently they were in a gray area license-wise and also made too much noise for nearby apartment dwellers.

Corte Inglés Gourmet Experience. Umm. On principal I rarely mention this department store, but the cafetería /gourmet shopping area on the top floor of Callao store has a truly fabulous view. Where: Plaza de Callao, 9th floor.

Moncloa’s Lighthouse (Faro), that strange spaceship next to Museo de las Americas. Inaugurated in 1992, closed for a long time after 2005 for rehab to bring it up to fire code. Now open, though they reserve the right to close down in adverse weather.  Fabulous observation deck over this edge of the city, the Complutense University and out towards the mountains. Visit length limited to 30 minutes.  How high: 110 meters (361 feet).  Website for info about hours, prices, etc: https://www.esmadrid.com/informacion-turistica/faro-de-moncloa

 

Higher and higher: Madrid’s Ten Tallest Torres (towers)

Metropolitan building from Bellas Artes rooftop terrace

Cuatro Torres / Four Towers Business Area. Four skyscrapers, mostly office space, built 2004-2009. Where: just north of Plaza de Castilla. How high: Torre Bankia 250 meters (820 feet) / Torre Cristal 249 meters (817 feet) / Torre Price Waterhouse Cooper 236 meters (774 feet) / Torre Espacio 230 meters (755 feet). The Cristal Tower has a garden on top, and the PwC Tower has a hotel and restaurant.

Torre Picasso. Madrid’s tallest for 30 years, designed by Minoru Yamasaki, same architect as the World Trade Center. Construction finished in 1989. Where: Azca business center, just west of Paseo Castellana near the soccer stadium. How high: 156m meters / 512 feet.

Torre Madrid. Classic white skyscraper, built for offices, apartments and leisure activities. Construction finished in 1957. Where: Plaza de España, corner Princesa. How high: 142 meters / 466 feet.

Torre Europa. Oval building with vertical metal columns and glass, clock near the top. Construction finished in 1985. Where: Paseo Castellana, across from soccer stadium. How high: 120 meters / 394 feet.

Edificio España. Massive red and white pyramid shape building, used to be office space, now empty. Construction finished in 1953, recently rehabbed. At last news, owned by a bank and for sale. Where: Plaza de España. How high: 117 meters / 384 feet

Torre Colon. Tallish twin buildings with a green thing on top that looks like an electric plug. Buildings hang from central columns (built from the top down), construction finished in 1976. Where: Plaza de Colon, corner of Genova street. How high: 116 meters / 381 feet.

Kio Towers. Two tallish buildings that lean towards each other on on both sides of the Castellana, sort of scary standing underneath looking up. Buildings hang from central columns (built from the top down), construction finished 1996. Now dwarfed by the nearby Cuatro Torres. Where: Plaza de Castilla. How high: 114 meters / 374 feet.

Bimbo?

Spain. Madrid. Bimbo

Bimbo in Madrid

 

Scene seen in the street….

Bimbo in Spain is not a decorative but ditzy female. It’s bread. 

Nothing fancy, mind you. Originally this brand only did unhealthy white loaf bread, but they have expanded into sort-of whole wheat and some basic crackers.

But like famous brands for other products (Band-Aid on my finger, Kleenex in my purse) Bimbo is almost synonymous for loaf bread, to the point that when you ask for your morning toast it’s correct to specify that you want  pan-pan (bread-bread, baguette style) not Bimbo.

This brand causes eye-rolls, raised eyebrows and sometimes even snorts or snickers among recently-arrived English speakers.

*The sign above is from a square in the lower Rastro, quite near my house. I’ve been trying for a photo of their trucks but that’s too hard to plan. The half-circle at the top is the paw of the cute dough-boy bear holding the sign, large silly smile on its face.

 

Ribadesella

Ribadesella seaside promenade from Virgen del Guia chapel

 

Ribadesella lies on Spain’s green northern coast in the region of Asturias, about 70 kilometers / 44 miles east of Gijón. As the name tells us, it’s on the bank of the Sella river; actually, it’s on both banks, connected by a long bridge over the Sella estuary. A quick look at a good map shows us that the coastal plain is quite narrow and backed by mountains, first a lower coastal range then the majestic Picos de Europa. That location makes Ribadesella a great destination for exploring eastern Asturias, both the coastal plain and part of the mountains, with many options for cultural and active travel.

Flashes of history: Local cave Tito Bustillo shows population from prehistoric times, though the first written record of the town is from the Greek historian Strabo in the first century BC and the official town charter is thirteenth century under King Alfonso X. In the seventeenth century there was a project to make Ribadesella the main port in Asturias by connecting the town to inland Castilla region, but in the end that honor went to Gijón (main pass into Asturias is Pajares, accessing Oviedo then Gijón). In the early nineteenth century this strategic town was occupied by Napoleon’s troops during the Peninsular wars. Early in the twentieth century the town was a favorite summer residence, as shown by the mansions remaining along the beach; King Alfonso XIII visited here though usually stayed at Santander to the east. At the beginning of the Civil War (1936) Republic forces held the town to try to stop Franco’s army westward march after taking Bilbao and Santander; in their retreat west the Republic soldiers blew up the bridge to slow Franco’s forces.

Originally the economy was based on timber coming down the Sella river, shipyards, maritime trade, fishing and whaling. Nowadays it’s mostly tourism with some farming, livestock (cows for cheese!) and a bit of fishing.

What to see, in town:
Long, lovely beach on west side of the Sella river. Architecture promenade with mansions from the early 20th century along the beach, explanations of the most notable buildings (two now hotels, one the youth hostel).

Tito Bustillo cave with cave paintings, one of several prehistoric caves along this coast (Altamira to the east is the most famous). The cave is very interesting, though English speaking guides not always available and cave closed November – March as well as part of the week rest of the year to preserve the paintings. If visiting the cave is too problematic, the attached visitors’ center is excellent (information English as well as Spanish), so good that doing both is worthwhile for people who like history. More info at their website www.centrodearterupestredetitobustillo.com

Virgen del Guia chapel, on the bluff on the east side of estuary where it meets the sea, visible from most of the town. This chapel was founded in the sixteenth century at a strategic place for controlling the entrance to the estuary and port; the cannons were thrown into the sea by the French in their retreat, returned to their original site in 1999. It’s a bit of a climb to reach the chapel, but the views of town and to the east are very good. The easiest way up: from the east end of the seaside promenade, just under the chapel, where a marked path zigzags up the bluff. Way down: once up there it’s easy to see other alternatives for walking back down.

International Sella descent, from Arriondas to Ribadesella, a big yearly event in early August. With professional kayakers and canoers at the front, inner tubes and other recreational floats at the back, it’s a big party as well as an elite sports event. Spectators can take the narrow gauge train that runs on the riverside spur only for race day.  More info www.descensodelsella.com/index.php/es/

La Cuevona cave, not exactly in town but so close it is included here. This huge cave is a little south of Ribadesella, on the west side of the Sella river. It’s so big that it was refuge for eight villages during the Civil War (1936-39). The paved road through the cave is the only access to town Cuevas del Mar.

Sella estuary looking inland

Sella estuary looking inland

What to see, nearby:

Asturias Jurassic Museum has lots of information the dinosaurs that roamed this area. Where: a little west near Colunga, website www.museojurasicoasturias.com/ More dinos: Many beaches along this coast have dinosaur tracks. Cute towns: Llanes to the east, Lastres and Tazones to the west. Many good beaches between Unquera in the east and Gijon in the west. Oviedo (Asturias capital city) to the west has several outstanding pre-Romanesque churches; other similar churches are nearby.

Active travel, walking: Ribadesella is on the northern Road of St. James. Since that route is linear, take bus or train one way and walk the other. Strong walkers could take the Road west to Vega beach (near Berbes) and return to town along headlands through village of Leces. There are several circular walks from town, though not all well marked. More info on those routes on the town website and at the tourism office.

Active travel, other: Several local travel companies can organize kayaking on the Sella river, usually the descent from Arriondas with option to shorten partway through (most of the year that’s an easy paddle even for beginners). Some of those travel companies can also help with routes in the Picos de Europa, most notably the classic Cares gorge, a spectacular linear route where organized drop-off and pickup makes this day hike much easier to manage. Bike rental and even surfing classes also available locally; golf course a little west in Berbes.

Gastronomy: Lots of restaurants with good seafood, too many to mention here. Many are along the seaside promenade (especially east side of the Sella), and with that variety you can pick and choose – they tend to be a little less expensive farther out. If you’re in town fall to spring, try the fabada bean stew: with sausage and other yummy things this is a hearty meal not usually available in the summer, and not recommended for dinner. Asturias region has a huge variety of cheese, from sinus-clearingly strong Cabrales (blue-ish) to very mild and gooey or crumbly, with everything in between. Drink of choice in Asturias region: hard cider, somewhat of an acquired taste though the obligatory pour from arm’s height into a big glass is fun to see and almost a ritual in the region. Chocolate shop with a big variety of things made of, well, chocolate. Just looking in the window is a treat, fun place to get gifts. Ok, maybe it’s Ghirardelli, but part of the fun is finding a place like this in a seaside town in Spain. www.chocolosophy.es/

Nuts and bolts for Ribadesella:

More information: For pre-trip planning, town website www.ribadesella.es/ Part (not all) of the site is in English. In town: tourism office near east end of the big bridge. Good map for entire region of Asturias: Michelin Zoom España number 142.

How to get there, public transportation: Ribadesella has frequent buses west to Oviedo and Gijon, and some buses east to Santander. More info (English) on Alsa website www.alsa.es/en/ The narrow-gauge coastal train between Santander and Oviedo is somewhat less convenient due to schedules and station location, but the train route is prettier than the highway and the train is more fun (especially with kids). More information on FEVE section of Renfe website: www.renfe.com/viajeros/feve/horarios.html

 

Books

Want to dig deeper into Spain’s fascinating history and culture?

 

Here is a list of books to help you on your way to discovery. There are many, many more books on Spain, of course. This is a selection of books I’ve read personally and enjoyed, or books I’ve heard about; more will be added to this list over time.

Non-fiction: books on this list vary a lot in genre and in style of presenting the information. All are quite readable, some denser than others. Notes by book title will help you pick what suits you best.

Fiction: the books here are on different periods and styles, many historical fiction (a genre I love, a fabulous way to learn effortlessly) and some mystery-adventure set in different periods. Most are available in English, though you may need to look a bit for translations of Spanish authors.

Best English bookstores in Madrid:   Pasajes https://www.pasajeslibros.com/        and   Booksellers  https://booksellers.es/    These are probably the best for general book selection; at least Pasajes has an excellent section for non-fiction and will order books.   Of course there are many, many other bookstores in Madrid, too many to list here, but these are a good place to start.

HISTORY – General
The Story of Spain, by Mark Williams. This is a good, very readable overall history book from prehistoric times up through the present. Instead of concentrating on every single date, this gives the major events and their context, as well as the ongoing themes in Spanish history.  My favorite for a first history book.

Spain, The Root and the Flower, by John A. Crow. Another overall history. A bit rambling, but the section on art and literature is somewhat more complete than The Story of Spain. The author visited Spain for the first time before the Civil War, so some of his personal comments are very interesting. The last part (Spain today) is from the early 1980’s (last edition of the book) so is not really current, but is a good benchmark to see just how far Spain has come since that relatively recent date.

Spain, A History, by Raymond Carr. A newish history book by one of the recognized experts.

The Ornament of the World, by María Rosa Menocal. A readable book about Spain in the middle ages, when for more than 300 years Christians, Jews and Muslims lived together in peace, learning from each other and benefiting from the cultural interchange. The period immediately after was less harmonious, but might that initial tolerance might teach us something for today’s world?

Moorish Spain, by Richard Fletcher. Another readable book about Spain in the middle ages, with more detail about Islamic Spain. Somewhat less positive about amount of harmony and getting along, somewhat more conventional way writing history.

The Jews of Spain, A History of the Sephardic Experience, by Jane S. Gerber.  On my shelf, haven’t read yet.  History of Jews in Spain from Roman times, through the 1492 expulsion and history outside Spain through part of the 20th century.

Blood and Faith, the Purging of Muslim Spain, by Matthew Carr.  History of Muslims in Spain, starting somewhat before 1492 when Granada was taken by the Christians, though a complicated period of broken promises and forced conversion to the final process of expelling everyone of Muslim ancestry, even if a practising Christian.  Has some history of the Jewish expulsion as context.

Savage Frontier, the Pyrenees in History, by Matthew Carr.  History of the mountain range that separates the Iberian peninsula from the rest of Europe. Very good, more cultural and ethnographic than traditional history, though there is some of that, too.  The border has seen its share of conflict with Europe but was also escape route from Spain to Europe after Spain’s Civil War, and from Europe to Spain and points beyond during WWII. Traditional life styles, soldiers, smugglers of people and things, what really is a border?

Catherine of Aragon, by Giles Tremlett (see below for another book by the same author). Autobiography about Catherine, daughter of the Catholic monarchs and first wife of Henry VIII of England. Not all about Spain, but given her family ties and later contacts with both Carlos I and Felipe II this is a good one to read to see how her story influenced England’s.

Isabella, the Warrior Queen, by Kirstin Downey. Newish biography about Isabella of Castille, the most influential woman in all of Spanish history. She and her husband Ferdinand of Aragon were the Catholic Monarchs, who together started the Spanish Inquisition, sent Columbus on his discovery voyage and many many other important events. Read and liked this one.

Sister Queens, by Julia Fox. Book about two daughters of the Catholic Monarchs Isabel and Fernando, Catherine of Aragon (first wife of Henry VIII of England) and Joanna “The Mad” (queen of Spain between the Catholic Monarchs and Carlos I).  Haven’t read this one either, but again looking forward to it. Joanna is one of the enigma’s of Spain’s history, was she or was she not truly mad, my opinion is probably not mad but manipulated by powerful male family members.

Imprudent King: A New Life of Philip II, by Geoffrey Parker. Newish biography about Philip II, great-grandson of the Catholic Monarchs. One of the “greater Hapsburgs” he ruled the Spanish Empire at its largest – his son and grandson saw a rapid decline that has long been pondered by historians. The book description says the author (expert in miliary history and in Spanish history) explores that question – was Philip a good or not-so-good manager, perhaps the downward slide started with him. Haven’t read this one either, will be interesting to see if the author gets beyond the Black Legend about this king.

HISTORY – Modern
-The Spanish Labyrinth, by Gerald Brenan.
-The Spanish Civil War, by Hugh Thomas.

-The Spanish Republic and the Civil War, by Gabriel Jackson.

-Concise history of the Spanish Civil War, by Paul Preston.

-Doves of War, by Paul Preston.

-Spain in our Hearts, by Adam Hochschild

-The Spanish Civil War, a very short introduction. by Helen Graham

-The International Brigades: Fascism, Freedom and the Spanish Civil War, by Giles Tremlett.  Just out in mid-March 2020, thick book with maps, photographs, charts, lists and a good bibliography as well as the text.  Haven’t read it yet, but really looking forward to this one.

If you like history and really want to understand Spain, you should read at least something about the 1930’s, covering the Spanish Republic and the Civil War. Of the books above, Brenan’s book is a solid account of the time immediately before the War and the social-political currents at work then (some still present in modern Spain!) Thomas’ book has long been considered one of the most unbiased books on the Civil War, long but quite readable. Jackson is another of the gurus of Spanish history so this book is a good choice (for Medieval history his Makings of Medieval Spain is very good). Preston’s “Concise” book is a little dense, but he is considered one of the experts on this period. His “Doves” book takes four women in this period (two left, two right) and tells their stories. Spain in Our Hearts is one of the most readable books I’ve found on this period, lots of historical detail, but also personal observations from several US citizens (soldiers, journalists, other), British citizens, and other international people. The Helen Graham “introduction”  book may be enough to get the basics of this complicated period: then if you want more, you can get something more detailed.

Spain: Dictatorship to Democracy, by R. Carr and J.P. Fusi.

The New Spain, from Isolation to Influence, by Kenneth Maxwell and Steven Spiegel

The New Spaniards, by John Hooper

Ghosts of Spain, by Giles Tremlett

The period from the sixties until the present, especially the “transition” after Franco’s death in 1975 is close to miraculous, whan Spain went from a seriously underdeveloped country to a modern country and a full member of the European Union. Any of the last four books listed above will help you understand this fascinating time. The last two books are more cultural – sociological studies than actual history, and are considered two good choices to understand today’s Spain.

Looking for something on a specific period or theme? Ask us!

FICTION
Don Quijote, by Miguel de Cervantes. What reading list for Spain would be complete without this classic? For translations, you might try John Rutherford or a new one by Edith Grossman.
The Shadow of the Wind, by Carlos Ruiz Zafón. A great read, beautifully written, intriguing story set in Barcelona, from early to mid 20th century. Good description of life in the city at that time – Barcelona fans will recognize places they know well. Written in Spanish, translated into English, if your Spanish is fluent, try the original (La Sombra del Viento).  And that’s just the start! He has written two more, The Angel’s Game and Prisoner of Heaven

The Shadow of the Pomegranate tree, by Tariq Ali. Set shortly after the fall of Granada, this historical novel shows the dilema of the Muslim community as the Christians violate the 1492 treaty respecting their religious freedom. Emigrate to Africa, convert to Christianity or rebel against the powerful political and religious rulers that now controlled the land where they had lived seven hundred years?

The Alcantara Bridge, by Frank Bauer. Written in German and translated into at Spanish and I think English. A two-part novel about medieval Spain (11-12th century), famous for tolerance between Jews, Christians and Muslims. The books center around three characters, one for each religion, and we see their different but similiar outlooks and how their life stories start to intertwine.

The Last Jew, by Noah Gordon. A young man is left behind by his family when all Jewish people were forced to leave Spain in the fifteenth century. This novel tells the story of his travels and his life.

For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Sun Also Rises, by Ernest Hemingway. Eternal favorites. Hemingway really captures atmosphere and feeling for the times, though certain license has been taken with details (ie there are no caves in the area he describes in For Whom the Bell Tolls). Good reading.

The Day of the Fox, by Norman Lewis. A man mistakenly decorated for heroism by Franco’s side returns to his town after the war and is received well by some and not-so-well by others. Good account of the war’s ongoing influence, many small towns in Spain can tell similiar stories even today.

Winter in Madrid, by C.J. Sansom. Love story, thriller and more, set in Madrid right after the Spanish Civil War. A few inaccuracies about Madrid geography (picky picky, but it’s set partly in my neighborhood so I notice) but the feeling is right on target. A must read if you want to understand why this period is still hard to discuss in today’s Spain.

The Spanish Game, by Charles Cumming. Spy book set in modern Madrid, partly about international politics, partly about lust, partly about excessive paranoia and partly about the Basque terrorist group ETA. This guy has the right geography, including some bars (again partly in my ‘hood). Good story, also fun to see if you know where he’s talking about.

The Return, by Victoria Hislop. An English woman, daughter of a Spanish woman from Granada goes to Granada for a summer. There she meets a waiter in a cafe who tells her about the Civil War and time right after it. I enjoyed the book, but thought the modern story was better written than the account of the past. Another disturbing story of a disturbing time. Good ending (but read the whole book).

The Last Queen, by C.W. Gortner. About the Catholic Monarch’s daughter Juana, nicknamed “la Loca” (the Mad).  The author writes this historical novel as an autobiography, trying to make sense of one of Spain’s big historical issues: whether or not Juana really was crazy.

A Dying Light in Corduba, by Lindsay Davis. Murder mystery set in Cordoba in Roman times, with olive oil as a major part of the plot. Davis’ character Marcus Didius Falco (a Roman private eye featured in most of her books) and his wife Helena try to unravel the situation.     (this author has a whole series of books across the Roman Empire, telling Marcus Didius Falco’s adventures).

Iacobus, by Matilde Asensi. A medieval knight travels the Road of St. James on a quest for…. treasure? knowledge? personal fulfillment? Knights Templars, adventure and some love interest too. A great read, think Da Vinci Code but better. Asensi has written other excellent books, among them The Last Cato (El Ultimo Caton), another quest book, and the Martin Silvereye trilogy, a really good historical fiction trilogy set partly in Spain’s 16th century and partly in the Caribbean of the same period.

The Time in Between  AND  the Seamstress, by Maria Dueñas. The book Tiempo entre Costuras has been published with two titles in English, one in England and one in the USA.  This wonderful historical novel is set partly in 1930’s Madrid (just before the Civil War), partly in Spanish Morocco shortly thereafter, then again in Madrid. There’s a good strong woman character, love interest, history and intrigue. A great read.  (personal note: heard the author speak on this book, and background is based at least partly on family memories of their life in Morocco).  Maria’s second book is called The Heart has Its Reasons in English (Mision Olvido in Spanish) is about the Spanish missions in California.  Third book The Vineyard (Templanza in Spanish) is about a Spanish man, adventurer, entrepreneur, living first in the Caribbean then in southern Spain, trying to rescue a failing wine cellar.

Shadow of the Wind, The Angel’s Game and The Prisoner of Heaven,  all by author Carlos Ruiz Zafon, and all set in Barcelona. Very unusual, a bit spooky and a bit magical reality, most people love these books (I sure do!) but they are not for people who like to know where they are and where they are going – because you won’t.  The author says these are a non-sequential trilogy (or words to that effect), related but you can start anywhere.  I would highly recommend starting with “Shadow”;  the sequel to Shadow is The Labyrinth of the Spirits (2016), and that definitely should come last.

Captain Alatriste books / Capitan Alatriste, author Arturo Pérez-Reverte. Seven books about a fictional 17th century soldier of fortune, an honorable man living in less-than-honorable times. He and his young sidekick Iñigo Balboa (narrator of the stories) have many adventures in the time of Spain’s King Phillip IV (aka unofficially: the party-king). While fictional, real-life people appear frequently (like writer Francisco de Quevedo, friends with Captain Alatriste, and count Villamediana, sometimes friends and sometimes not).  The historical feel of the books is very good (mentioning Madrid places that can be identified by anyone with some knowledge). Most of the books have been translated at least to English and probably other languages.

The Hand of Fatima (La Mano de Fátima), by  Ildefonso Falcones De Sierra. Historical fiction, 17th century. About a young Islamic boy in the Alpujarras (south of Granada) forced to convert to Christianity like most of his co-religionaries, his life up to adulthood in the Alpujarras and Cordoba. Love, good guys, bad guys, intrigue, repression and more.  Great story and great sense of place, though sometimes the autor goes off on a long historical ramble before returning to the story. Quite long but I liked it and learned a lot about this complicated period.

Cathedral of the Sea (La Catedral del Mar), also by Ildefonso Falcones. Historical fiction, 14th century. Another life story, this one about a poor boy in Barcelona who works on the construction of Santa Maria del Mar (one of the prettiest Gothic churches in Spain) and his adult life. Again, love, good guys and bad guys, great sense of place and all that but also with historical rambles. Liked this one too, Barcelona is always a good setting and this is no exception.   This book has been made into a pretty good TV series, available on Netflix at least in Spanish, not sure about English.   UPDATE:  Sequel to this book came out in 2016, cannot find it in translation, title in Spanish is Los Herederos de la Tierra, which could be Heirs of the Earth or Inheritors of the Earth when translated.   (Falcones has written more, if you like his writing look for The Barefoot Queen, for example).

The Moorish Whore, by Rebekah Scott. The story of Zaida, born a Muslim princess, who becomes first lover then wife to Alfonso VI of Leon (11-12th century Christian kingdom in what is now Spain).  She was in the middle of a lot of political and social intrigue, and has to learn to navigate what she can, and live with what she cannot.

The Muse, by Jessie Burton. Two stories, one in 1960’s England and the other in 1930’s southern Spain, just prior to the Spanish Civil War. The connection is a painting.

The Telling Room, by Michael Paterniti. Story of a tiny town in north-central Spain; about cheese, wine and the people who make and appreciate those things; and a story about story telling. There’s a slow part in the middle but persevere.

Strong as Death and The Outcast Dove, both by Sharan Newman.  These books are part of the Catherine LeVendeur mystery series and while are excellent on their own, are even better if you read the previous books first, or at least the first in the series (Death Comes as Epiphany) where we get most of the backstory and family secrets (many).  Catherine is a 12th century French woman who almost becomes a nun but doesn’t, ends up solving mysteries through her curiosity and intellectual prowess.  The two books mentioned are both set partly on the Camino de Santiago (Road of St. James).

The Devils of Cardona, by Raymond Carr.  Strange and violent events in the foothills of the Spanish Pyrenees draw the attention of the Crown – and an investigator is sent to find out what is happening. But are the mostly likely suspects really guilty, or is something else going on?  Good portrayal of the religious conflicts of this period (16th century), where “old Christians” and newly converted Muslims or Jews did not necessarily get along – and that fact was sometimes used to provoke or hide other issues.

Albi, by Hilary Shepherd.  An old man in a Spanish village reflects back on his childhood just after the Spanish Civil War.  Very good as coming of age story in a challenging time in Spanish history, shows the divisions in a small town and the repression faced by the war’s losers and their ways of fighting back, even under that repression.  While this is a novel, I get the feeling that some of the book is based on true or almost true events in the Maestrazgo area, where guerilla “maquis” hid in the mountains for years after the end of the war.

The Assasin’s Mark    and     Until the Curtain Falls  by David Ebsworth.  Set in Spain during last year of the Spanish Civil War, main character is a British journalist. First book is about the war tourism project run by Franco’s forces, showing off northern Spain and their vision of the war and the future of the country to groups of foreigners. This book has been described as an Agatha Christie mystery about a group of people where odd things start to happen.  Second book is sequel to the first, wraps up the story (sort of) and wraps up the Civil War (sort of).  The British journalist is a leftie, and his views on what is happening are through that perspective.  Quite a bit of history as well as a good story, though version of history is more left than center (umm.  sensible way to view that period).

There your Heart Lies by Mary Gordon.  A young American woman accompanies her doctor husband to Spain to help the Republican (lefists) side in the Spanish Civil War. When he leaves the country she stays on. Lots of things happen (can’t say more, sorry). The book alternates between the woman’s life as a young woman in Spain and as an older woman in the USA, telling her story to her grand-daughter.

The Fountains of Silence, by Ruta Sepetys.  A young American man visits Franco’s Spain in the 1950’s, meets a young Spanish woman and her family.  They are from very different backgrounds. Lots of things happen (can’t say more, sorry).  Another story in at least two parts.

People of the Book, by Geraldine Brooks.  A book about a five hundred year old book and the Australian conservator who works on the book to preserve it and learn something of the book’s story. Her story of working on the book alternates with the book’s story, with episodes explaining what she discovers while working on the book.  This is not 100% about Spain, but several of the historic episodes are set in medieval Spain, time of the famous cultural plurality so important in the book’s story.  History, intrigue, some light science and maybe some love interest.  A very good read.  (she has written other books as well, I’ve read Year of Wonders and Nine Parts of Desire – and will read the others, now that I’ve discovered her!

The Second Son, by Jonathan Rabb. Set in the Spanish Civil War, a German detective comes to Spain to look for his son who came to film the People’s Olympics in Barcelona and stayed on, travelling across Spain’s battlegrounds.  Last book of the Berlin Trilogy, you would appreciate more if you read first books Rosa and Shadow and Light.

Another favorite Spanish novelist: Almudena Grandes. She has written a lot, but mostly not translated. She is almost finished with a mega-project called Episodios de una Guerra Interminable (Episodes of a Neverending War), six books about the aftermath of Spain’s Civil War, with a little bit during the war. She’s written five of the six books, mostly about people on the losing side and what happened to them in the years following the war. The stories and the characters are really varied, from a coming-of-age story in southern Spain to a leftie doctor in Madrid to a woman married but not married to a political prisoner to the failed invasion of Spain through the Pyrenees. She rambles sometimes and is rather political (left) but all in all she is a very very good writer, highly recommended if you read Spanish.

Day of Atonement, by David Liss.  This is about Lisbon instead of Spain but is so good and indicative of similar issues in Spain that just must include here.  The main character grew to young teen in a Jewish family in Lisbon in the early 18th century. He has to flee to England to save his life, grows to adulthood there, converts to Christianity  and returns to Lisbon to discover what happened to his parents and avenge them if he can.

AUTOBIOGRAPHY

Homage to Catalonia, by George Orwell. Official international policy dictated “non-intervention” to support the legally elected Spanish Republic, though Franco’s rebel forces received aid from Mussolini and Hitler. In that difficult situation, many volunteers arrived from all over the world to fight for the Republic against Franco. This is Orwell’s personal story.

A Woman Unknown, by Lucia Graves. Growing up bi-cultural and tri-lingual on the island of Mallorca during Franco’s time. A very good read for everyone, especially for women and extra especially for women who remember the 1960’s well: comparing Lucia’s life with life in other places is very interesting. The author is the daughter of Engish writer Robert Graves.

As I Walked Out One Midsummer Morning, by Laurie Lee. A young English man walks across the Iberian Peninsula in the mid 1930’s, just before the breakout of the Spanish Civil War.

South from Granada, by Gerald Brenan.  One of the best Hispanists ever (Author of a history book mentioned above), Brenan lived in southern Spain for many years. This is his story about living in a small village in the Alpujarras mountains.

VARIOUS
Photography: For excellent photographs of the Spanish Civil War, see Robert Capa’s work.
The Road of St. James / Camino de Santiago: Too numerous and too varied to list here. If you want to do the Camino, you may want to read any one of the many personal stories by modern pilgrims, though remember that your experience will be different. For a medieval pilgrim’s story, if you read Spanish or can find it in English, try the twelfth-century Calixtine Code, usually considered one of the first “guidebooks” and probably the most influential work in setting out the classic “French Road” that is usually considered the Camino (actually there are many Caminos…). If you are travelling with an organized group you won’t need information on places to stay, but if you are on your own you will have no problem finding a book with this information. If you are interested, you might try to find something a little esoteric, the Camino has lots of levels of meaning and spirituality, not all of it is religious nor even 100% Christian in the conventional sense of the word.

Nature: There are lots of guidebooks out there for plants, birds and beasts though it may be difficult to find something specifically on Spain in English: usually this will be included in a book on Southern Europe.

GENERAL GUIDEBOOKS
All the well-known travel guide publishers have guidebooks, some on specific regions of Spain, some include Portugal or Morocco. Just remember no guidebook is perfect!! Making the right choice is a good start but no book will have absolutely everything you want or be totally error-free.

In making your choice, what geographical area the book includes will be an important factor – why get something on Portugal if you don’t plan to travel there in the near future? Different guidebooks also include different mixtures of information on the cultural sights and practical travel information – if you are a real culture buff you may need more information (local tourist offices can usually help a lot here in Spain). Of course you should also keep in mind your own travel style, as the different guidebooks are meant for different people – don’t get a backpacker’s book if you only go first class. And very important (for Puente at least) is a solid if brief history section — which will help put things into context during your travels.

Kale Tale

Spain. Galicia. Kake

Wheelbarrow of kale

Kale is a super-food, or so they tell us. It’s on that list with blueberries, salmon, quinoa and now (yes!!) dark chocolate.

Now I’m not a real cook, but I do like playing in the kitchen, and my first experience with kale chips was a real revelation (thank you, Betsy).  The problem is finding kale in Madrid.

Sometimes I can get it at the Vallehermoso market.  Then there’s a small fruit-and-veg place in the trendy and health-conscious Chueca neighborhood. There’s even a place not too far from my apartment. But none of these is really reliable, and all require a special and sometimes unsuccessful trip.

It’s different in the north, where kale is food for some kinds of livestock as well as an important ingredient in regional dishes. That includes Galicia, the northwest corner of Spain, where gardens with kale abound along the last kilometers of the Road of St. James (el Camino).

When I say gardens, that can be anything from a two rows to a big field.  It’s not unusual to see knee-high kale next to a stalky kale almost two meters high, so tall you’d think it was another plant altogether.  I’ve always been curious about that tall kale (Camino pilgrims walking with me also ask), but never had the chance to talk to an expert to get the scoop.

Last month I got my chance during first part of Way-Back Camino, walking the Camino away from Santiago instead of towards Santiago.  In a village at the top of a hill on that dang rollercoaster into Portomarin (pilgrims will remember, it’s harder going east!) right on the Camino there was a wheelbarrow piled high with kale and a woman harvesting in her garden. I took a photo of the wheelbarrow as she was coming out with another armful, looking at me with a puzzled expression, um, you like my wheelbarrow?

 So we talked about kale , and I got the scoop.

The knee-high kale was planted about three months ago – March or thereabouts – and the tall kale about a year and a half ago; kale can easily live two years and get taller than hers, so tall that you have to pull it way down to harvest the leaves. No, the frost doesn’t kill it, she says it tastes even better after a freeze, something I’ve seen in kale recipes that require frost-nipped kale. (climate note: it does freeze in Galicia, but temps are rarely below freezing for the entire day, and certainly not below 25ºF for any length of time at all).

She told me that caldo gallego is usually made with kale from late spring to fall, and with turnip greens in the winter.  (A Galician woman in Madrid told me this can be a family thing, as her family always uses turnip greens).

My expert got the kale scoop too  – she was surprised to hear that kale is considered a super-food, and liked the idea of kale chips.  She was shocked that kale is hard to find in Madrid, and that one of my sources told me it’s not the season – she indignantly insisted that it is high season for kale, but we concluded that the clueless Madrid vege vendor was thinking hearty soups, not a summer favorite in Madrid where temperatures are often over 90ºF.

We parted after a nice conversation and some good giggles, sort-of friends. This is just the kind of local encounter that I love and seek out whenever possible – next time I walk through her village I’ll be looking for her to say hi and ask if she tried the kale chips.

 Spanish language tips:

Kale = berza.  Turnip greens =  grelos

Caldo gallego: literally Galician broth, though this hearty soup is anything but “broth”.

Spanish slang: coger una berza (catch a kale) = get drunk

 

Spain. Galicia. Triacastela

Kale garden Triacastela

Caldo gallego recipes

Caldo gallego is one of those traditional recipes with some basic ingredients and lots of options.  Every Galician cook has a recipe, and most cook by eye instead of by a book; if you want to make caldo gallego here are the basic guidelines:

Must have:  greens (usually kale or turnip greens, also works with spinach or cabbage or a mixture of greens), potatoes, white beans (some kind about ½ inch long)

Optional:  ham, chorizo type sausage, beef, meat stock (meat is not at all necessary to make a fabulous soup).  Some people add onion, garlic or chestnuts.

Lovely thing about caldo gallego? There’s no way to make it wrong.  Well, it’s not wrong as long as you use the three basic ingredients, that watery potato soup with three beans in Triacastela on my last trip was not caldo gallego. What a disappointment!

If you are a by-eye cook, here’s my unscientific, super-simple method. It’s not 100% authentic but pretty close, easy to do and pretty darn good (I like one-pot meals that don’t need watching!).  True cooks who cringe at this method: see real recipes at the end.

Proportion idea per serving (do your own thing if this doesn’t look right):  1 medium white potato, handful uncooked of white beans, about 3 or 4 times volume of potato in uncooked kale.    Make extra, this keeps for several days and heats up well.

Remove the big central vein from the kale leaves and tear into pieces, size not real important but thinking of eating ease perhaps double the size of soup spoon is largest reasonable size.

Cut the potatoes into thick slices (chunks are ok too).

In a deep, heavy pot, get the potatoes started in some olive oil. When they’re a little soft add a bit of garlic or onion if you are using. This is a good time to add the chorizo, so the potatoes get the flavor.

Add the soaked white beans and about double water to cover (or a bit more depending on beans, less if beans are pre-cooked canned type).

Add a bit of salt and a sprinkle of pepper (not really in Spanish recipe but tastes good). Another possible addition: sprinkle of Spanish smoked paprika.

Let that mixture do its thing on medium-low heat for a while, add the greens and let it finish cooking.   How long? Ummm.  Greens need to be totally wilted into the soup, beans done but potatoes not completely mushy. Correct seasoning and serve.

Possible addition:  Chestnuts! Peeled and maybe roasted prior to soup (I can get them prepped like this in Madrid).  I’ve never had caldo with chestnuts in any restaurants, but saw this in a recipe (now vanished) tried it and it’s great; Galician chestnuts are as famous as Galician potatoes.

A recipe in Spanish

www.recetasderechupete.com/caldo-gallego-receta-tradicional-gallega/4365/

 Two recipes in English, they look ok, first more than second

www.tienda.com/recipes/caldogallego.html

http://spanishfood.about.com/od/hotspanishsoups/r/CaldoGallego.htm

 

Food Slang 101

FOOD  – and food-related expressions. Food seems to pop up in slang and popular expressions more than any other group of words. Here is some slang using food words:

Pasta:     Pasta like macaroni and spaghetti and slang word for money

Pavo:      Turkey and slang word for the euro-coin. A “pavo” used to be a 100 peseta coin, using it for the euro-coin is inflationas a euro is something like 166 pesetas.

Chorizo:   sausage and a petty thief – or not so petty, also used for businesspeople and politicians caught with their hand in the cookie jar.

Partirse un piñon:     Share a pine nut, used to say people are close, more often in business or politically than personally. Most usual construction: Esos dos están a partirse un piñon.

Berza:   kale  and someone or something that is tedious and not-too-intelligent, or drunken spree

Buenas migas:     good crumbs, another way to say people are close, though this one can be friendship as well business. Most usual construction: Esos dos hacen buenas migas.

Seta: wild mushroom and mountaineer slang for the top flap of a backpack, usually with a small storage pouch.

Road of St. James – Back in Madrid

Santiago de Compostela: Officially pilgrims!

Santiago de Compostela: Officially pilgrims!

 

 

Past pilgrims know the meaning of the photo above – it’s official, we’re all pilgrims! They’ve changed the system a bit – no more waiting on the stairs, the checkin desks are at the back of the courtyard. That’s good as long as it isn’t raining, if wet it would be soggy. And…. new layout makes it easier for people to cut in line. Someone tried it on us but between Julie and I we cut her off at the pass.

Now back in Madrid and going through withdrawal – want to walk! This always happens – need to get out for a stroll before bed.

Also have empty nest syndrome – where are my pilgrims, 1 to 9? This is also usual. Hard to cold-turkey on walking and being mom-for-a-week.

Yesterday wandered Santiago’s lovely old quarter, visited the Cathedral museum, visited too many jewelry stores (browsing mostly, well…….). Lunch was a last yummy caldo gallego soup and octopus on the less touristy side of Azebacheria street, fewer shops but nicer walking if shops are not the main objective.

Night train back to Madrid shared a compartment with three about-my-age English sisters who had walked from Leon in two weeks, in remembrance of their walking mother. They loved Cebreiro and Foncebadon passes. We had a good chat and I gave them some pointers for their day in Madrid.

Blogging summary…. this is fun, but it’s definitely a challenge when out of Madrid. Internet connection is not great at most of the Road hotels, don’t have a lot of extra time and this year I’m still on a learning curve with my new tablet. Definitely need more practice.

Buen Camino!

(originally posted early June 2014, just after return from weeklong trip on the Road)

Talking Tortilla

Spain. Madrid. Tortilla

Spanish potato omelette

 

 

It’s probably the most universal of Spain’s traditional cuisine, a perfect example of simple ingredients that together add up to much more than you would expect. Available everywhere, cheap, and when it’s good, you can’t ask for a better fast and filling meal.

In case you haven’t guessed, we’re talking tortilla. Tortilla española, to be specific.

For those not in the know, “tortilla española” bears no relation to Mexican corn patties. “Tortilla española” is a thick omelette with potatoes and often a bit of onion or garlic. Other omelettes abound in Spain – with sausage, cured ham, peppers, vegetables or a mixture of all that is a one-meal dish. But it’s the potato version that really defines traditional cuisine in Spain – and in a land of hearty, simple food, that says a lot.

If you’ve never tried tortilla, you’re probably new to Spain because sooner or later – usually sooner – everyone has a chunk, a slice or a whole tortilla with friends. If your tortilla experiences have been few or not very pleasant, read on for some tips.

Where and when: Just about every informal eating establishment has tortilla, but don’t expect to find it in upscale restaurants or in tiny villages with few outsiders, where most people eat at home. Tortilla is usually available from about 10AM all the way to closing time at night – except times in between when they’ve run out and are making another – if you’re not in a hurry, it’s worth the wait to get tortilla right out of the pan.

How: Probably the most frequent way to eat tortilla is a “pincho” – a slice of omelette with a chunk of bread, great for a late breakfast or or a light lunch. You can also ask for a “bocadillo” – sandwich on “baguette” type bread – yes, mom, this is a heavy dose of carbs, potatoes AND bread? But it’s delicious anyway, and if you’re hungry and in a hurry, a fast way to get some filling food in your stomach – ask for fried peppers or tomato-rubbed bread if you need the veges to assuage your conscience. You can also ask for a whole omelette to share with a group: the usual dinner-plate size will feed five people or a hungry foursome. A whole omelette is usually served uncut – the traditional way is to cut it into more or less bite-sized squares (a little more than 1 inch / about 3 cms square), and spear with forks or toothpicks.

Tips for getting the best: Good tortilla is firm outside and slightly juicy but not runny inside, with the potatoes done but not crunchy or mushy. Finding this can be tricky; sometimes the potatoes aren’t right, or the tortilla is too dry or too runny, and personal taste does play into the definition of “good” (tortilla newbies often shy away from “juicy”, preferring something that most would define as too dry).

If possible, try to see the product before ordering. If the tortilla is under the countertop display case, or if you see a slice go by, check it out: is it dry? juicy? crusty around the edges? If you’re asked if you want it heated up, think twice. Room temperature is usually better than microwaved, which can turn tortilla dry and rubbery. Beyond texture, personal taste takes over: onion or not, salt, thickness, etc, all are tortilla variables that you can now explore.

So where can you get good tortilla in and near Madrid? I LOVE tortilla but have to limit my intake – it’s habit forming and fattening, so I restrain myself to special social occasions or pre-hike breakfasts, when lunch is miles down the trail. Thus the number of places outside Madrid – most are trailheads for favorite walks.

In the city: Kybey II on the southwest side of Olavide square, near calle Cid (metro Bilbao), excellent tortilla, and their tortilla and salad deal is well worth waiting for a table on their summer terrace – the place is always packed. Las Bravas on calle Alvarez Gato makes decent tortilla (metro Sol/Sevilla), and will spoon on their patented hot sauce. Meson La Tortilla on Cava San Miguel (metro Sol), along one side of the Plaza Mayor specializes in tortilla; a little touristy. Cabaña de Senen in the Casa de Campo park, west side of the lake (metro Lago), another outdoor venue with great tortilla and views of the Royal Palace.

Out of the city: Dos Castillas in Navacerrada pass – but think twice if it’s ski season, quality can drop due to crowds. Venta Marcelino in Cotos pass, used to be a favourite but it’s not so good recently (new cook?) El Brillante (calle La Fuente 20) in Valdemorillo has the best thick and juicy I’ve tried – and the service is really friendly.

Want to make your own? In addition to the general guidelines shown in any Spanish cookbook, here are some reminders and hints from experts. Get the right proportion of eggs and potatoes – this will take some practice, and it may be best to set aside part of egg mixture until you mix the potatoes and eggs – then you can add it if you need more egg. When potatoes are ready (not crunchy, softish but cooked,), pour them into a bowl with the eggs, mix well and pour the mixture back into the pan. Turning the omelette over is a delicate moment – once one side is set, pat the edges with a fork to consolidate a little, cover the pan with a big plate, flip and carefully slide the omelette back into the pan. It’s really important to know your pan, both the size and how it heats, and the different temperatures of your burners as you may need to vary the temperature during cooking. The tortilla artist who makes my favorite thick and juicy says temperature is the secret to making a great tortilla – then reflects a bit before saying that all you really need is a lot of practice.

 

*Tortilla photo taken  at Cabaña de Senen in the Casa de Campo