Author Archive for AnneInSpain – Page 3

Storks

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Tuesday, January 26th, 2016 

Storks

Por San Blas las cigüeñas verás, y si lo las vieres, año de nieves.
(Around San Blas day – Feb 3 – you’ll see the storks, and if you don’t it will be a snowy year. Did you notice the subjunctive of “ver”?)

 

One of many Spanish sayings about the weather, many of them true. This one tells us about the storks coming back from southern latitudes: they’re among the first to fly south, and among the first to return, so they’re a sign of spring, like robins in other parts of the world. But this saying tells us even more: if you don’t see the storks the winter will continue. So maybe we can also consider them groundhogs?

The trick is: many Spanish storks do not migrate. They stay all winter in warmish places like western Spain and even in Madrid. (you can see them in the Casa de Campo). So before you jump up and down when you spot a stork early in February, be sure it isn’t a permanent resident, or a stork on a Mission with a pink or blue bundle in its beak.

Stork trivia: they return to the same nest year after year. The nests are huge and can cause structural damage to church belltowers – but since storks are protected towns cannot just remove the nests. The solution? Reinforce the church towers, often by building metal baskets so the nests rest on the baskets and not on the roof itself. You can sometimes see the metal baskets in fields or by the edge of reservoirs, like in Manzanares el Real near Madrid, or even on lighting fixtures, like by the zoo in Madrid’s Casa de Campo park.

After that sidetrack, back to weather sayings: En febrero el perro busca la sombra. (In February dogs look for shade. This is good to practice your r and rr.) Another sign of spring: dogs lying in the shade because the sun is too hot. Yes, there is usually a week or two of gorgeous weather in Feruary, but don’t be fooled. Winter is not over yet.

Categories : Language Language
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Cool Daddies

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Saturday, January 2nd, 2016 

Scene seen in Córdoba (southwestern Spain), late in December:

Totally cute scene at breakfast bar. I’d just ordered my first breakfast (coffee and tomato toast, did you guess?) when a dad came in with four-ish boy child, obviously known in the place as both members of wait-staff greeted child by name Alvaro before saying hi to dad. Well. Cute part was when two of dad’s male friends came in. Big smoochies for Alvaro, then the three launched into a conversation about Alvaro’s mom, very pregnant with due date in about two weeks, how she’d prefer to be at home to not run risk of going into labor at work but doc isn’t ready to recommend rest, so she’s sticking it out.

Then they started chatting about whether or not it would be good for baby to be born still in December instead of January because that decides when she/he would start school, and they all must be very participative young dads as they starting talking very knowledgably about level of baby-ishness or not among kids at preschool, depending on their age, some arriving in strollers, and others evenwith pacifiers (that must be left at the door), how just a few months makes a lot of difference at that young age, etc.

And I’m thinking, wow, have things changed or what? and southern Spain is more traditional than Madrid. Yay! you go, guys! Totally cool daddies!

Categories : Seen Scene

Architects that Made Madrid

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Thursday, December 31st, 2015 
Cibeles

Antonio Palacios building in Cibeles

 

Have you ever noticed a quirky detail under a balcony, a beautiful entranceway, an unusual shape building on a corner lot, and wondered who thought it up? Someone put it all together – an architect who by inspiration and planning created a building that was structurally sound, visually pleasing, with its own personality but also fitting in with its surroundings.

That’s the ideal situation and it’s a tall order, but it can be done. Madrid really does have a sort of architectural personality – or rather, as many personalities as neighborhoods – and lots of great buildings, especially in the older part of the city. Churches, convents, palaces, banks, all somehow fit together to make Madrid distinctively Madrid.

This article is a fast introduction to architecture in Madrid, highlighting several influential or prolific architects from 17th to 20th centuries. It’s interesting to note how architects first patrons were kings and nobility, later on City Hall, cultural organizations (Bellas Artes building by Antonio Palacios), real estate developers or occasionally wealthy people looking for a statement (Longoria Palace by Grases Riera).

Like most modern cities, Madrid has lost many beautiful buildings, torn down in the name of progress, destroyed by time, fire, or so altered by remodelling that they have lost their original character. But there’s still lots to enjoy! Take a walk in the city, look around you, become an architectural sleuth to see if you can identify buildings by these architects – or discover other architects who helped create the Madrid we can see today.

Juan de Herrera 1530? – 1597. Worked mainly for: King Felipe II. Work in Madrid: Bridge over the Manzanares at bottom of Segovia street. Important work outside Madrid: San Lorenzo de El Escorial Monastery (started by Juan Bautista de Toledo, altered and completed by Herrera); also worked on Aranjuez palace and Valladolid cathedral. Characteristic style, called herrerriano in his honor: symmetrical, geometric lines, very little decoration, sloped roofs usually in dark slate, square towers at corners of buildings with four-sided pyramidal roofs topped with tallish pinnacles. Quick summary: While only the Segovia bridge remains of his actual works, Herrera’s influence is visible in later buildings: Plaza Mayor (designed by Herrera, destroyed by fire late 18th century and rebuilt in same style), Old City Hall (Plaza de la Villa, Juan Gomez de Mora project, started around 1645), Foreign Ministry (Asuntos Exteriores, Plaza de las Provincias by Plaza Mayor, built as noble’s jail, Juan Gomez de Mora project started 1629), or the Escorial-like Air Force headquarters (Princesa street at Moncloa, built 1942-1951)

Pedro de Ribera 1681-1742. Worked mostly for: King Felipe V, nobles. His work in Madrid: Conde Duque barracks (Conde Duque street), Hospital for the poor (Fuencarral 78, now City History museum), various noblemen’s palaces around the city (current Chamber of Commerce on Huertas street, current Treasury building on Alcalá street, doorway of Filmoteca Institute on Magdalena street). Also worked on Montserrat monastery on San Bernardo street, San Cayetano church on Embajadores street, Mariblanca fountain (replica of statue now in Sol at start of Arenal street), urban planning for southwest side of city, Toledo bridge over the Manzanares river. Characteristic style: brick with stone decoration, very large, ornate carving around main entranceways. Quick summary: Though some buildings are fairly plain, Ribera is usually placed under the extreme rococo style called churrigueresco for a family of architects (brothers Jose, Alberto and Joaquin Churriguera) who were less favored by Kings and nobility.

Ventura Rodríguez 1717 – 1785. Worked for: Fernando VI, Carlos III. His work in Madrid: San Marcos church (San Leonardo street), interior of Encarnación monastery, various palaces for nobles (Liria palace on Princesa street, Altamira palace just off Gran Via, Boadilla del Monte palace). Designed important ornamental fountains like the Cibeles, Neptuno, Apolo, Alcachofa and others, all created by sculptors following his designs. Worked on Aranjuez palace, Royal Palace, San Francisco el Grande church. Important work outside Madrid: Santo Domingo de Silos monastery church, Pilar basilica in Zaragoza, Pamplona catedral facade, various city halls, jails, schools, urban planning and civil engineering projects around the country. Characteristic style: Baroque – neoclassic. A prolific and imaginative architect, but when Carlos III ascended the throne royal favor passed on to Francesco Sabatini.

Francesco Sabatini 1722-1797. Worked mainly for: King Carlos III, some for Carlos IV. His work in Madrid: Puerta de Alcalá city gate, Royal Customs house on Alcalá street, original layout of Botanical Garden, Marqués de Grimaldi Palace (Plaza Marina Española, also called Godoy Palace), rebuilt Comendadoras monastery. Participated in building of Royal Palace, San Francisco el Grande church (Bailén street), Hospital General (now Reina Sofia art museum), rebuilding Plaza Mayor after fire. Various projects for paving streets, creating and decorating promenades in south of city. Remodelled Cuesta de San Vicente (along one side of the Royal Palace), created waste water system. Characteristic style: Neoclassic, based mainly on Italian Renaissance instead of ancient Greece and Rome.

ElephantAlcala

 

Jose Grases Riera 1850 – 1919 Best known for grand monuments and for modernist style (he knew Antoni Gaudi). In Madrid: Longoria Palace (Fernando VI street, now Spanish Society of Authors and Editors), monument to Alfonso XII by the lake in the Retiro, triangular building at Alcala 14, originally for the Equitativa insurance company and now under scaffolding as part of gigantic rehab project – but if you can peer around fence you can see the elephants under the balconies (shown at left) .

Antonio Palacios 1874-1945: His work in Madrid: Communications Palace (Plaza Cibeles, now City Hall, photo above), Day-Workers hospital (Maudes 17, now a Madrid government building), Rio de la Plata bank building (Alcalá 49, now Instituto Cervantes), Círculo de Bellas Artes (Alcalá 42), design of first Metro stations (all changed except Chamberi stop on line 1, now a Metro museum), remodelled Hotel Avenida on the Gran Vía, various other buildings and urban planning. Important works outside Madrid: quite a few in his native Galicia. Characteristic style: Lots of big spaces, public buildings, style varies from very classic (Rio de la Plata bank building) to very ornate (Communications Palace).

Categories : Meet Madrid
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Carnival!

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Thursday, December 31st, 2015 

CarnivalBurialSardine

Madrid, morning of Ash Wednesday. Getting in the mood to bury the sardine

 

Carnival brings to mind elaborate Venetian masks, harlequin costumes, be-plumed and lightly-clad ladies, sambas, parades and roving kazoo bands. What’s really behind this colorful festival?

A bit of background: Carnival is usually described as a last wild fling before Lent, the 40-day period of fasting, prayer and introspection before Easter Sunday. Carnival celebrations started in Europe during the Middle Ages (13-14th c) and spread from there. In this definition, the word Carnival may come from late Latin or Italian words meaning removal of meat or farewell to meat or flesh (carne levare, or carne vale), a logical interpretation as fleshly pursuits were frowned upon and meat forbidden for Catholics during Lent.

But many scholars say that Carnival’s true origin is in the pagan festivals still celebrated in the early years of Christianity, later incorporated into the Christian calendar with new meanings. The most frequent theories suggest connections to the Roman Saturnalia festival, to late winter festivals celebrated in a number of cultures, or to Celtic and Germanic winter feasts. Saturnalia was celebrated in December, so the date is wrong for today’s Lent-related Carnival but the spirit is right: revelry, parades and society turned upside down. The late winter festivals celebrated the almost-end of winter – sometimes considered the start of the year – and the imminent start of sailing season. Under the pagan definition, the word Carnival may come from the words carrus navalis (naval car or ship) taking the pagan deity to the festival – like the Roman Isis festival where an image of the goddess was carried to the sea on a decorated wooden boat to bless the new season. Followed by masked revellers, this sounds a lot like the floats in modern-day Carnival parades.

Whatever the origin, Carnival is a huge party, a kind of ritualized chaos accepted for a few days every year. Masks and costumes are an important part of the celebrations – sometimes with ancient symbolism about the agricultural cycle or scaring off spooky, otherworldly spirits. Carnival celebrations can be mysterious and sensual or colourful and raucous; yet others include a “battle” between characters symbolizing the frenzy of Carnival and the austerity of Lent. Some Carnivals show oral history or political commentary in the costumes worn or in the rhyming stanzas composed to record events of the previous year.

The end of Carnival can be a feast where everything that cannot be eaten in the next 40 days is eaten in large quantities – that’s probably the origin of the name Mardi Gras or Fat Tuesday, the last day before Lent, or the pancake suppers traditional in some Anglican or Episcopalian churches. Another frequent final ritual is some sort of death and funeral – perhaps burning a puppet or scarecrow symbolizing Carnival, or a ceremony like the Burial of the Sardine.

Frenzy, sensuality, political commentary, masks hiding faces….. Carnival’s excesses have not always been accepted by authorities. In the 16th century, Spain’s Carlos I and Felipe II both restricted some aspects of Carnival, though fun-loving Felipe IV later brought back the party. Even in the twentieth century both Italy and Spain officially outlawed Carnival for around 40 years – in both countries the celebration was legalized again in the late 1970’s – early 1980’s. Today, while recognized almost everywhere as a good way of letting off steam and attracting tourism, there’s sometimes an edgy undercurrent not present in other festivities.

Big fun for most of us, but perhaps not for the easily offended, the strictly moral, thin-skinned politicians or for the people in charge of keeping the festivities under control. So get out and enjoy – in costume or at least with mask, painted face or silly hat. You’ll have a lot more fun if you’re a participant instead of an observer.

Finding your Carnival:

When: Some Carnivals are in the late fall, others around January 6 (King’s Day or Epiphany), but the usual dates are 5-7 days before the beginning of Lent; that usually means February except when Easter is very late. Many places start Carnival on Thursday or Friday, with major celebrations on Saturday and the Burial of the Sardine or another closing ceremony on Tuesday or Wednesday. Dates vary from year to year and place to place, so it’s wise to check with a local city hall or tourism office to be sure of exact program. Tip: if you look on Internet, be sure you’re looking at dates for the correct year!

Where: Carnival is celebrated in some way in most Christian countries around the world. Areas with strong ties to Catholicism usually have stronger traditions, but Carnival is also celebrated in many Protestant countries and even in India, sometimes fusing with decidedly non-Christian local traditions.

In Spain the best-known Carnival celebrations are on the Canary Islands and Cadiz, but Madrid has a wild one, too. Here’s a selection of ideas to follow Spain’s Carnival trail:

Cadiz: One of Spain’s best-known Carnivals, street bands and choirs. Has a tradition of political commentary. More info http://www.andalucia.com/festival/carnival-cadiz.htm

Canary Islands: Santa Cruz de Tenerife and Las Palmas de Gran Canaria. Both have a longer-than-usual Carnival. Santa Cruz: A classic, has child and golden-age Carnival queens. More information: www.carnavaltenerife.es . Las Palmas: Drag queen and lots of street bands and choirs. More information (at least partly in English): www.lpacarnaval.com/

Galicia: Carnival is also called Antroido or Entroido in this region. The southern part of Ourense province has several interesting Carnival celebrations in smaller towns: Verin, Xinzo de Limia, Viana do Bolo and Laza are all in more or less the same area. The Carnival costumes in all these towns are very elaborate, often including enormous masks, sheepskins and huge cowbells – and Laza’s Carnival is one of the oldest in Spain, if not in the world. Some of these villages have early Carnivals, others on traditional dates. More info: http://www.turgalicia.es/o-entroido-en-galicia

Guadalajara: This province is just northeast of Madrid province, with many miniscule villages, some half deserted, and a lot of lovely countryside. Several villages have interesting Carnivals: one of the best is in Almiruete (near Tamajon), with colorful costumes and masks (best day is usually Saturday). The botarga is one of the traditional Carnival characters here. Learn more at Guadalajara’s tourism page  http://www.turismoenguadalajara.es/reportaje/vive-la-tradicion-de-las-botargas/NTk=/   (alas, might not work except near Carnival time)  or other page, scroll down a little to find links about different areas of Guadalajara and cultural traditions in each area. This is a great resource for weekend getaways, once you are ready to get off the beaten path. Go to  http://www.turismoenguadalajara.es/mucha-tradicion-guadalajara/

Madrid: The official pregon (opening ceremony) is usually a humorous speech by an actor, singer or musician, possibly followed by an outdoor dance or concert. The big parade is Saturday night (usual route: Retiro – Cibeles), with an appearance by Mr. Carnival and Ms. Lent (Don Carnal and Dona Cuaresma), lots of floats and music groups and groups of people in costumes – sometimes scantily dressed or with Carnival-esque themes right on the edge of naughtiness. The Circulo de Bellas Artes (calle Alcala 42) organizes an elaborate costume ball on Saturday night, and there will probably be some activities for kids over the weekend. Madrid’s Carnival ends with the Burial of the Sardine on Ash Wednesday (technically the first day of Lent), when the Brotherhood of the Burial of the Sardine holds a mock burial in the evening, complete with a small coffin and mourners in black, sobbing tragically on their way to bury the dearly departed… sardine. This fun event starts near San Antonio de la Florida chapel on Paseo de la Florida (next to Casa Mingo chicken restaurant), with a burial procession to the edge of the Casa de Campo. If you’re in the city in the morning, you might find the Brotherhood wandering around the La Latina neighborhood, getting in the spirit of things for the evening event. Where and when: various venues around the city on classic pre-Lent Carnival dates.   Website:  http://www.carnavalmadrid.com/    check to be sure it’s showing the right year, they update quite late!

Categories : Spain is Different
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Salamanca

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Thursday, December 31st, 2015 

SalamancaCityCathedral

 

Salamanca is far from unknown as a destination for travelers in Spain – but like Toledo, lack of time or knowledge can mean that most people hit only the high points and miss some very interesting sights. Yes, this city can be “done” in a day from Madrid if you hurry, but with a little more time you can see a lot more, and you can make your return visits with Aunt Gertie, cousin Joe, or college roomate Amy more interesting for you – and for them – if you have some tricks up your sleeve.

So this article is a quick guide to some of the lesser-known sights – and less about the major sights because they’re so easy to discover.

Must-see number one: Of course you should see the Cathedrals – note the plural as Salamanca has two Cathedrals side by side, a fantastic lesson in architecture that spans six centuries. Don’t miss the old Cathedral (to the right of the new), including the cloister where the University held exams before their buildings were completed. Jazz up this classic visit: Outside the new Cathedral you must look for the astronaut and the devil with something surprising in his hand – they’re around the north door and even for kids are much easier to find than the famous frog on the University façade. Incongruous on this 16-18th c building, they were added during a restoration in the 1990’s as a sort of signature and statement that work had been done in modern times.

Another unusual view of the Cathedrals is from the square behind the old Cathedral (photo to left). There you can see the fairy-tale turrets around the scaled dome of the old Cathedral, the rooster weathervane – and appreciate the difference in size between the two buildings and how they literally share a wall.

Cathedral add-on, in my opinion a must-see:  The roof / towers.  Entrance is on south side of the old Cathedral (opposite side from the new), takes you up and up the very top of the belltower. On the way you see the old bell-ringers quarters, birds-eye view inside both Cathedrals from the foot, entire length of the naves, and a wander on parts of the rooftop walkways.  Information panels in all the right stopping places (and more!).  Yes, lots of stairs and some a little uneven or narrow, but worth it unless physical issues would make it impossible or torturous.  Not for anyone with fear of heights (obviously).  Idea:  try to be at top of the belltower on the hour for a big-ring (10-12?), or not, it could be really loud!

Continue your wanders down to the river to see the Roman bridge spanning the Tormes river. The fifteen arches closest to the city are 1st century Roman and the rest rebuilt in the 16th century. In Roman times Salamanca was a stop on the “Silver Way” from the Roman gold mines in the north all the way south to Sevilla, now this route is one of the alternative Roads of St. James – you can spot bronze shells in the city pavement if you look a bit. Walk across the bridge and look back for an interesting view of the city, including part of the old city walls (wall sleuths: it’s easy to imagine the line of the city walls looking at a map. Hint: Puerta Zamora was the north gate).

Also from the river, a bit to the east of the bridge, you can see the back view of the Casa Lis. This Art Nouveau-Art Deco museum is a real surprise in 15-16th century Salamanca and is a must-see for anyone interested in early 20th century art, both for the building itself and for the excellent collection of dolls, toys, bronze and ivory statues and glassware. Fabulous gift shop. The entrance to this museum is near the back side of the old cathedral.  Doesn’t sound like your thing? Think again! Get a preview here http://www.museocasalis.org/nuevaweb/

The other must-do is University (one of the oldest in Europe) including the the façade, where tradition dictates that you find the lucky frog – a tough job on the ornately carved Plateresque (silversmith) style section over the door, but there is almost always someone there who can help.

Head back towards Salamanca’s famous Plaza Mayor on Rua Mayor with a quick stop at the Casa de las Conchas – the shell-studded outside is great but if open, you should also go inside to see the patio – note the “mixtilinear” arch typical of Salamanca’s palaces. If you want a less transited route back to the main square, continue north on Compañia street then take Meléndez to the right – this route has fewer tourists than Rua Mayor and a number of small restaurants and stores.

Salamanca’s 18th century Plaza Mayor (main square) was used as a bullring for around 100 years. Like Madrid’s main square, Salamanca’s square is a symentrical and completely enclosed. There are lots of outdoor cafés but beware! they’re much more expensive than cafés just a few blocks away.

Market: If you like food (who not?) or just want a glimpse of local life, check out the main market, right next to the Plaza Mayor on the east side. Be sure to walk around the outside of the market as well as going inside. Get more info (schedule, etc) at http://www.mercadocentralsalamanca.com/

If you still have time you might want to try to see San Marcos church at the north end of calle Zamora, 10-15 minutes walk from the Plaza Mayor on a pedestrian shopping street. This 12th century Romanesque church is a personal favorite: completely round, probably as a defense strategy as it was just inside the city walls. If you’re lucky enough to find it open (usually only for Mass), note how three naves are created in this small and ususually shaped space.

Tourist information for Salamanca: www.salamanca.es Look for the link about visiting times (horarios de monumentos) , especially for the more unusual sights (at present it’s towards bottom of home page under Oficina de Turismo on-line, but they redesign web every now and then). Once in the city, you can get a good basic map and ask questions at the tourism offices in the Plaza Mayor.

Getting to Salamanca: There’s very good public transportation to Salamanca – both train and bus. Take care when purchasing as there are fast and slow options for both train and bus, evident on schedules. Relevant websites: www.renfe.com for train and www.avanzabus.com for bus.

Categories : Road of St. James / El Camino, Travel
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Discover Five Towns

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Tuesday, December 22nd, 2015 

ChulillaTown

 

When’s the last time you took the back road? The slow way from A to B, through villages where “nothing” is going on – just life as usual, but in a setting so charming that you park the car and have a coffee, end up chatting with the locals (no matter what your language skills), buying local wine and cheese, and leaving with notes for a detour to another lovely spot or restaurant two towns away…

Sure it takes longer, but if you can arrange the time, the journey between two points becomes part of your experience, instead of “starting your vacation” when you reach your destination. This is even more noticeable walking or cycle touring – no, slow-track travel is not for everyone, but the discoveries made stay with you forever.

Here are five villages discovered while cycling or walking around Spain. Some have been “discovered” in a larger sense and will sound familiar to intrepid travelers. Others are Huh? unknowns. It was hard to select five – there are lots more on my list of favorites – so these are all north and / or east of Madrid, leaving others for another time.

Distances shown are straight line, just an indication to help you find these places that may not be on less-detailed highway maps. All these villages have at least one place to eat and most more than one – Siurana and Calatañazor can get crowded, Majaelrayo is known for game (in season).

Siurana (Tarragona): About 18 kilometers northwest of Reus, on the edge of Priorat wine area. Tiny Siurana is on the way to nowhere – the paved highway ends there on a high bluff. As you drive up the steep (very steep!) highway, imagine pushing a loaded touring bike up and up and up (gasp. pant). Magnificent setting, quaint old stone houses.

Puentedey (Burgos): About 70 kilometers north of Burgos, just north of highway N232. Small village on a natural stone bridge. Be sure to take path under the “bridge” to see the back view, and for the best photo op, take road up to cemetery. Exploring back roads in northern Burgos will lead to other fun discoveries.

Calatañazor (Soria): About 30 kilometers southwest of Soria. This village was basically a pile of rocks on my first trip, but now many of the old houses have been rebuilt and there’s even an ethnographic museum – try to see a “pinariega” chimney: conical outside, free-standing inside the house. Ruins of a castle, anthropomorphic tombs carved into stone nearby. Ask a local to tell you the rhyme about the name of the village, a musical instrument and a certain Islamic ruler.

Chulilla (Valencia): About 50 kilometers west northwest of Valencia, in the Requena-Utiel wine area. A white village with twisty alleys, set against a reddish cliff with the ruins of a medieval castle. Small, recently renovated spa about 5 kms away (www.balneariodechulilla.com).

Majaelrayo (Guadalajara): about 55 kilometers north-northwest of Guadalajara, west of Ocejón peak. One of the “black villages”, made almost completely of slate with an odd construction technique. Some of the abandoned villages in this rather spooky region are now coming back to life thanks to rural tourism. Majaelrayo is the usual trailhead for the challenging hike up Ocejón; Valverde de los Arroyos (a more classic “pretty village”) on the east side of the peak is also worth a visit.

Categories : Travel
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Caganer /Mr. P

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Thursday, December 17th, 2015 

Spain’s traditional Christmas decoration is not a Christmas tree but a Nativity scene (that’s Belen or Bethlehem in Spanish) . Some Nativities are small with just the basic figures, but many are large and elaborate, including a stream made of crinkly blue plastic, a windmill, blacksmith or chestnut seller: for me, together those seem to represent water, wind and fire. In addition to the obligatory Holy Family, shepherds and Three Wise Men, many large Nativities have entire village scenes, with a wide variety of everyday people going about their everyday lives.

In Catalonia (northeast Spain, around Barcelona) they have another character, going about his everyday life. This character is so traditional that after admiring the Nativity and complimenting the owner, the next step is to spot this little person.

Warning: If you are easily offended, stop right here. Really!

 

 

 

 

Still here? So what is this character and might it be offensive?

It’s the caganer, dubbed Mr. Poopy by my brother (from now on we’ll call him Mr. P to trick the profanity filters; one p-word might slip through but more might not). The traditional Mr. P is a little figure of a Catalonian farmer with his pants down around his ankles, crouched over and with a little brown pile in just the right place.

This might sound shocking, but there’s actually a good reason. As a farmer, Mr. P understands the importance of fertilizing his fields, and that’s what he’s doing, fertilizing his fields so the next harvest will be a good one. Mr. P brings good luck, so he’s present in all Catalonian Nativity scenes.

Let’s think for a minute about fertilizing the fields. Mr. P is a lighthearted reminder that we all need to fertilize our fields, if not in this literal fashion, in another way. Fertile fields grow new ideas, new friends, and fabulous adventures, a good harvest for the body and the soul. We all need to find ways to fertilize our fields, whether that means unplugging the computer, visiting a museum, coloring a mandala, or walking in the woods.

In that spirit, my own Mr. P stays out all year round. I did move him from my cluttered work space to another shelf, where he watches my back – and maybe over my shoulder as I write. Yes, I also walk in the woods, color mandalas and hope that in the new year I can sew and knit again, yet another way to fertilize the fields.

Happy New Year! May your fields be always fertile. Remember to do your part.

 

MrP

 

Want to see more caganers? Even if you made it this far without being too offended, think three times before clicking on the link. Seeing important people from politics, sports, the arts and other occupations in Mr. P’s position is a little disconcerting. But if you’re ready, click away (just don’t say I didn’t warn you!) http://www.caganer.com/es/

Usually some stalls at Madrid’s Plaza Mayor Christmas Market have figures like the one on the left – I’ve also seen them in a shop on the west side of the square, more or less behind the horse’s tail.

Categories : Spain is Different, Uncategorized
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Tomato Toast

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Saturday, November 21st, 2015 

KimMozilBreakfast1

 

Breakfast in Spain used to be divided geographically between olive oil on toast and butter and jam on toast, with Madrid in butter territory. Knowing Spain’s geography and traditional rural products this makes perfect sense: olive oil in the south and east (Mediterranean Spain and where most of the oil is produced) and butter in the north, where dairy reigns.

But that has changed. Now you can get olive oil even in dairy-intensive Galicia – they might think you’re nuts, but it can be done. And in Madrid, ah bliss! Now we can get tomato toast. We can even get GOOD tomato toast: toast with olive oil and crushed tomato.

So what’s the perfect tomato-toast?   As any taste-test, this is rather subjective, but here are some guidelines.

When pondering your breakfast order look around, if lots of people are getting tomato toast, it’s good.

The toast must be bread-bread, not white loaf bread, usually called by brand name Bimbo (yes, really). The best bread is one with a moist, open crumb to better soak up the oil. Traditional white baguette style is ok if properly toasted on the “plancha” (iron grill), but rustic “chapata” type is better.

The tomato should be natural, skinned and crushed. Some places add a touch of garlic. Usually the tomato is served in a small bowl or cup with a spoon. Don’t get tomato toast if you see them serving tomato in sealed plastic mini-containers. That stuff is not very good.

Ideally there’s a bottle of olive oil and salt-shaker readily accessible for you to do your own thing. Some places pre-mix oil with the tomato, that’s usually ok, but separate lets you fine-tune to your own preference. If there’s no oil on the counter or table, ask the wait-staff.

My system: first poke holes in the toast all across the toast surface and drizzle on some oil (the holes let the oil soak in). Spoon on the tomato, spread it all the way to edges of the toast – these details are important – then take a bite to check your combination. Add a little more oil and salt if necessary, then ENJOY!

Note: Some places spoon on the tomato prior to serving. Hmmm. I really prefer to do that myself, but if it’s good tomato, that’s ok.

Where to try tomato toast in Madrid:

My neighborhood favorite: Cafe San Millan, Plaza de la Cebada, corner of San Millan. Excellent bread, perfect tomato. Only issue: early in the morning tomato might be cold instead of room temperature. Oil and salt should be on the counter (you don’t have to ask). Coffee is usually in a glass instead of cup, if you want it another way, specify when ordering.

Other favorites are on the city walks on eastern Alcala street and in Chueca’s market.

Reader contributions:

 

Cafe Matilda: Calle de Almaden, 15 (near Caixa Forum on Paseo del Prado). A very simple tostada with just tomatoes and olive oil. Bread is thick and crunchy, perfectly toasted.

Biotza: Claudio Coello 27 (near Jorge Juan, a few blocks from the Retiro). Crushed tomato, nothing added, good texture. Their “cafe americano” is very good, too.

 

Thanks to Kim Mozil for the photo

 

Categories : Food and Eating
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Madroños

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Thursday, November 12th, 2015 

MadronoTree

 

 

 

Sign of the seasons for early November: madroño trees (arbutus unedo)

Here in Madrid this tree has a special meaning – or sort of.  Folk wisdom tells us that bear and tree statue in Puerta del Sol is a madroño tree and (word has it) a she-bear.  That’s what we all “know” – but the real truth is that the original city logo had only a bear.  The tree was added in the 13th century to show that Madrid’s forests belonged to the municipality, not to the church (that took a court ruling to decide), and it was probably intended as generic “tree” not any specific kind.  Why so? Well, madroños are not really frequent in Madrid or nearby (they like somewhat cooler and more humid climes)  AND…..  the tree was not mentioned specifically as a madroño until the 16th century.

But folk wisdom tells us that the madroño is as madrileño as the zarzuela musicals or the man’s checked jacket, so now all locals can identify the tree, or sort of.  When taking the photo above in the Retiro, two Spanish women stopped to watch and ask what kind of fruit it was, and immediately said oh yeah, bear and madroño, a tiny bit embarassed to not identify by sight something that an obvious foreigner (me) did know….

Non-locals are now wondering:  so what IS a madroño tree?

For some reason madroño is translated as strawberry trees, even though we all know that strawberries grow on vines, and that the madroño fruit doesn’t look like a strawberry. One very cool thing about the trees is that they flower and fruit at the same time – and now is their season. The flowers are a spray of little white bells/balls and when ripe the fruit is orangey-red and about the size of a marble, so seeing trees with both is quite pretty, as you can see in the photo above.

Where to see the tree? Though infrequent in Madrid these trees grow wild in the mountains in lots of north and north central Spain. Because of the bear-and-madroño story, they’re frequently used as ornamentals in the city: there are lots in the Retiro along the Paseo de Coches (the paved north-south street just east Crystal Palace) and some on calle Mayor near calle Bailen.

So what’s the fruit like? Hard to describe a taste, hmmm, a little tart and a bit grainy, no apparent seed so I’m guessing the graininess might be micro seeds. When ripe, this fruit can give a feeling of drunkeness (bear with a buzz?) but careful, too many will cause umm intestinal issues (poor bear) though the leaves of the tree can solve those issues (nature is wise). This fruit is sometimes used for jams, and there’s a madroño liqueur. Where to get the fruit: some upscale-ish fruit stores in Madrid (probably the one on Ayala near Serrano, some shops in La Paz market, maybe the Corte Inglés), or grazing while hiking if you are very lucky, though only if you know the tree (that’s the disclaimer). Season is very short, so if you are curious, start looking now.

 

Categories : Food and Eating, Meet Madrid
Tags : , , ,

Gerona

Posted by AnneInSpain 
· Tuesday, November 10th, 2015 
Girona houses on river

Girona houses on river

A city as pretty as Barcelona throws a long shadow, making it easy to forget anything else in the region, but if you’re a curious traveler interested in exploring different destinations, you should definitely consider visiting  Gerona (Girona in Catalan).  It’s an easy day trip north of Barcelona, but it’s really worth more time, especially if you can arrange a few more days to explore the surrounding area.

Girona city has a long history –  Iberian, Roman then briefly Muslim; a wealthy city with a large Jewish population during most of the Middle Ages. The legacy of that long history is a beautiful medieval quarter, old churches and parts of city walls from different periods.

What to see, some highlights: Cathedral:  Widest Gothic nave in Europe, with a lovely Romanesque cloister and the famous Creation tapestry; impressive views of the Cathdral from the bottom of the stairs leading up to the main façade. Sant Feliu church, a little downhill from the Cathedral, another mixture of Gothic and Romanesque, often closed but with automatic lighting arrangement at the door. “Arab Baths”, unusual 12th century Christian baths from a period when failing the sniff test was part of Christian cultural identity. Cinema Museum, educational and fun, relatively kid-friendly.  Centre Bonastruc Ça Porta, museum explaining the Jewish history and culture in Spain. Sant Pere de Galligants monastery, interesting 12th century church “recycled” as an archaeology museum.

What to see, wandering: Girona’s medieval Jewish quarter is one of the best in Spain. Centered on the carrer Força (good restaurants), this neighborhood is full of narrow, twisty streets: plan some time to get lost, soak up the atmosphere and relax at sidewalk cafés. Recommended: Sant Llorenc, the street perpendicular to Força along one side of Jewish history museum;  views of the houses overlooking the Onyar river from any of the footbridges (photo above), pedestrian Rambla Llibertad for a rest with a drink or food.  Other places to wander: gardens behind the Cathedral apse, with access to the top of the old city walls, should-do if you have kids. Good views of surrounding countryside from the walls and back view of the Cathedral showing different construction periods (the wall walk continues quite some distance but the best part is right behind the Cathedral, it gets less fun farther away, and accesses are few).  Archaeology walk, up the stairs from near the “Arab Baths”.

What to see/do, nearby:  Most or all accessible by train or bus from Girona city.  Figueres, a little north of Girona: Salvador Dali Theater-Museum and Toy Museum. Besalú, a little west of Girona:  charming small town with small medieval quarter.  Garrotxa volcanic area, west of Girona (mostly a little east of Olot):  natural park with extinct volcanic cones, mostly covered with forest including a large beech forest, great walking and some options for horseback riding.  Caldas de Malavella, a little south of Girona: small city with two spas.  And lots more!

Insider tips: wear good shoes in Girona cityas streets are often cobbled and hilly. And do try to arrange an overnight instead of just a day trip from Barcelon, the old quarter is even better at night.

Getting to Girona:  Lots of trains every day from Barcelona-Sants station, usually around 60 minutes, less if you take a high-speed train. Some direct service from Madrid on high-speed trains. Train schedules:  http://www.renfe.com/EN/viajeros/horarios.html

More about transportation:    The bus and train station are together in Girona. Luggage lockers in Sants train station (Barcelona) and also in Girona station (dump your stuff and explore unemcumbered until train departure time).   Having a car is not an advantage in Girona unless you plan to explore the surrounding area – and even for that, the excellent bus and train network can take you to most of the places listed above.

Places to stay:   The city website shown below  has an almost-complete list of hotels but does not seem to show one charming place:  Pension Bellmirall, http://bellmirall.eu/    In Girona’s old quarter, this is an old mansion near the Cathedral.  It has some only-ok things: no elevator, bathrooms not fab on my last visit, Cathedral bells most of the night, no front-door car access BUT only seven rooms, nice shared space (breakfast in the private courtyard!) and lots of  atmosphere, inside and right outside the door

More tourism info:  http://www.girona.cat/turisme/eng/index.php  Local tourism office (get your map and additional info):  Rambla de la Llibertat, 1   /  Tel. 972 226 575  Email turisme@ajgirona.cat

Categories : Travel
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